Husbandry for Hondurans is much the same as most colubrids. I
keep mine right along with all my Kings and other Milks. I use shoe boxes that fit
into racks for about the first year of the snakes life. As they hit the two foot
mark, or so, I move them up to a 28 quart Rubbermaid tub that will be there home
for the rest of their life.  The cage set up is kept very simple for breeding purposes. A
hide spot and water dish is all that's in my cages. If you plan on keeping one or
two in a show cage you can add all the furniture you want (i.e. rocks, logs, etc..).
I use aspen bedding but there are many substrates that can be used. I know that many
people prefer newspaper, sani chips, corn cob, or care fresh. All of these are good
choices just remember to stay away from cedar chips.  I have 3 inch heat tape running
under the bottom of the cages close to the back. I use Helix thermostats to make
sure they don't cook. I went one step further than most due by adding a very thin
sheet of sheet metal to each and every shelf. This allows the tubs to slide easy
and not hang up or damage the heat tape. This also allows the heat to be distributed
more evenly.  I keep my cages at about 81 to 83 degrees in the rear of the tubs and at the
front it is around 75 degrees. If you use an aquarium you can do the same with a under
tank heater at one end.  I like to spot clean every day and do a full cleaning
every other week. Fresh water is always a must and should be changed even if it looks
clean at least once a week.  If you experience stuck on sheds you may want to provide
a shed box when they are in the blue(opaque). I use rubbermaid shoe boxes with lids
and big holes cut in the tops. Just dampen some spagnum moss and they will enter
the box and shed with ease.  Feeding is totally up to the individual and his/her
motive for keeping the snakes. If you plan to breed you may want to start by feeding
every three to five days. If you are just wanting a pet a once a week meal is more
than adequate. It's really hard to over feed a Honduran. I have seen animals that were
five foot in little more than a year. There are pro's and con's, of coarse, and I don't
personally do this. I try and get my animals big enough to breed in their third
year. I have lost a couple females before, by binding them up, because I was in a hurry
to see them breed. I will breed a male at 18 months if he is large enough and shows
interest.  Breeding Hondurans is very rewarding. There's nothing better than a large
12-16 inch baby popping out of the egg looking for its first meal. After you have
successfully raised your Hondurans up to size, and plan on breeding them, you need
a bit of a plan. By no means is this rocket science but a plan is always good. I start
by stopping the feeding around the end of October. I give them two weeks or a little
more to clean out their systems. I then (by Nov. 20th) start turning their heat down. I
turn their lights out all together. I go a degree a day till they are at about
60 degrees. Once they are at about 60 they start to become very dormant and then you can
drop the temp even more. My room goes down to about 50 by mid Dec. and stays there
through Jan. I start turning on lights in the day and turn on the heat tape as low
as it will go(60ish). I start raising it a little at a time just the opposite of
Nov. By mid Feb. they are at 81, and ready to eat. Some will shed right off the bat
and others will take there sweet time.  I try feeding the females every four days,
medium size meals. The males I only feed every other feeding. I like to keep my males
trim (not skinny) cause I think they do a better job. Most females will shed twice
before showing any interest in breeding. I have had a few breed after there first
shed but its quite rare. Right after a shed is the best time to place your female
in with the male. They give off more pheromones at this time and it really turns the
males on. If the female is not ready she will just buck the male off her when he
tries to mount her. I watch them pretty close but I have never personally had a problem
with Hondurans eating each other. If the female is ready, she will probably not even
move and just raise her tail up and let the male do his thing. Copulation is pretty
short with Hondurans but may occur several times over a two week period. One secret
is that if she looks gravid(pregnant) put her in with the male anyway. There's a
good chance she is just ovulating. It never hurts to get several breedings to make
sure she is fertilized.  Its usually pretty obvious when they are good and gravid. Their
scales stretch out pretty good and you can feel the eggs as they glide through your
hands. When they are very swollen and start to go into the blue you know it's a pre-lay
shed. As soon as they shed I get a nest box ready. If there isn't a box for them as
soon as they shed they can become very stressed. You need to make sure and remove
the water bowl right as they are shedding. They like to lay the eggs in their water
dish cause they think its the best place? Remember to give her a big bowl to soak
in right after she lays. I use a rubbermaid shoe box with a one and a half inch
hole in the top of the lid. I use vermiculite and perlite mixed with water. I have
never measured it but its about 50/50 by weight. I just add water until I can stick
my finger down into it and it sticks to my finger, as I raise it up. If its to dry
the shells will be very thick, and tough for the snake to get out of. If they are
to wet you may promote growth of fungus and the eggs may swell to much and pop.
I don't have any fancy incubators but just put them into one of my big racks.There
are some small holes in the box for air but I still open the box and fan the eggs
with fresh air every four or five days. I keep them at about 81 degrees during incubation
but they will hatch from the low 70s to the mid 90s. You may need to add a little
water now and then to the substrate to keep the boxes humidity up. I like to see
the box sweating when I open it. They usually hatch in 65-70 days at 81 degrees.
I have heard that at higher temps you will get mostly females but that's not been
proven?  Once the babies hatch it will take from 6 to ten days for their first shed. Once
they have shed they usually eat right off the bat. I like to feed my babies in deli
cups. This way they won't ingest any foreign matter. If the babies don't eat right
off the bat, I will give them another week and try again. Sometimes you may have to
try different things. Most will take frozen thawed but some will only eat live in
the beginning. If you get a real stubborn one you may need to brain case a pinky. This
is done by going down through the top of the head with a razor blade and out through
the front. When the brain is exposed it releases a odor that will sometimes trigger
a youngster into a feeding frenzy. This trick works well with many species.  I hope
this has been some help for some of you. Its pretty much the standard way of colubrid
rearing and its not much new info for experienced breeders. 
 Shannon Brown
West Coast Hondurans